Circle Game

~And the seasons they go 'round and 'round

And the painted ponies go up and down

We’re captive on the carousel of time

We can’t return we can only look 

behind from where we came

And go 'round and 'round and 'round in the circle game~

The African Baobab, or tree of life, is capable of storing large amounts of water, has medicinal properties, and is an important food source.  Thus, this ancient tree (~2,000 yrs.) has contributed to the survival of many Africans throughout time.   This is one of my favorite trees in The Gambia, and I have the pleasure of boating past Baobab Island once a month when I go out for fieldwork. 

The other day I skimmed through the journal that I have sporadically written in during my time in The Gambia.  On 24 December 2009, I wrote:  "...I think that I'm finally having the "wow, I'm in Africa" moments.  I've been so busy since arriving in country, and focused on adjusting here, that I don't think the enormity of it all has really set in.  The spatial distance is surreal too!..."  It is now 26 February 2011, and I still have the "wow, I'm in Africa!" moments.  It was neat to look back on what I've experienced thus far, and I thought you might enjoy some random glimpses at what I've documented.

14 November 2009  "...Proof that our western culture has trickled down: today's sightings included a Lord of The Rings t-shirt, 50-Cent t-shirt, a Dora the Explorer nightgown (worn during the day ofcourse), an air-brushed Barney t-shirt, and Playboy bunny flip flops on my very Muslim host father."

20 November 2009  "...Learned a couple of cultural taboos here- do NOT speak of pregnancy, and do not ask how many children one has.  It is considered to be bad luck!"

29 November 2009  "...Today we travelled to Soma, a town about an hours drive from Bumari, to go to the market.  The "toubab store" or Soma Mini Market, was rumored to have off brand American items that we would get excited over.  I was looking forward to the fake pringles and cheese, but unfortunately they had neither.  I did however buy cookies, fake swiss cake rolls, and crackers.  Later this afternoon, our PC driver Peter brought over bush pig and we cooked it up!"

13 December 2009  "...As part of our cross-cultural work, we had to visit a fortune teller.  Ours happens to be Matt's father Jeta.  Jeta also happens to be the Imam (religious leader), the traditional healer, and the husband of our cook.  I was apprehensive of the encounter because of witchcraft and spiritual practices of people here...I'm not even sure what I actually believe about this realm, but it seems mysterious, manipulative, and penetrating.  But once I found out who the "see-er" was, I felt relieved.  The whole ordeal was sort of humorous.  You had to pay 5 Dalasis, it only lasts a minute or two, and you don't even get to ask questions.  He told me that I'm stomach sick and that i will be better after i give away two kola nuts (one going to him), and that I will have a peaceful two yrs. here and greet my home people in peace.  I hope I find all of that to be true!"

27 April 2010   "...I'm growing fonder of Sally by the minute.  I don't know how I would manage without her!  She helps me around the house, keeps me entertained, and lets me be myself.  Today we danced to Grateful Dead together-so cute.  So yea, my best friend is a 3-yr old."

7 May 2010   "...Mom went to see Van Morrison last week with Hunter and Lauren!  I'm so jealous!  This was the first time that he's EVER played in Alabama.  I'm really happy that Mom got to go though!"

8 May 2010   "...Lienje and Sally and I went to the futbol game last night...Sally peed while sitting in my lap, so we had to leave early.  It looked like i wet myself!  I'm sure that's what everyone in the village thought..."

13 May 2010   "...So I was able to reclaim my head of hair!  Got all the dreads/tangles out, and now it's looking good!"

28 May 2010   "...Wow, can't believe it's almost June!  In 5 days it will be 7-months since I departed the U.S.!  Considering I was so incredibly sad to leave and didn't know if I could do it or not, I'm very proud of myself for making it this far!  I hope that the remainder of my time here will coast by and be as successful and fulfilling as it has thus far."

29 May 2010   "...So, either my days are becoming less pleasant, or my attitude is becoming negative.  Maybe it's a little bit of both.  Being here is so emotionally and mentally draining.  Sometimes it just sucks."

30 June 2010   "...Last night was my first storm in village.  Started around 11 pm, lots of lightning, thunder, and rain.  The rain sounds insane on the corrugate roof!  It makes me pretty anxious/nervous, but hopefully I will grow to find it soothing.  Just tough not knowing if your roof will blow off or not."

"...I would LOVE to put on a mini dress and some funky platforms and go out!  However, I'm sitting here in a dirty linen dress with braided hair, cooking instant pasta over my propane stove, and watching the termites eat away at my house."

17 July 2010   "...Dad called last night.  Apparently a cap has been successfully placed on the leaking oil well!!  Guess that's good news for now that there is no more oil spilling into the Gulf.  The dispersants and oil already present have probably damaged the Gulf Coast for my lifetime at least."

"The rains have been steady and everything is sooo green.  The banana trees in our compound are growing tall and the fields have been prepped and cassava, maize, and groundnut planted.  P.S.  There was a beautiful rainbow this evening while I was bathing."

30 July 2010   "...Today it rained sooo much.  I went to the beachside to work and about 20 min in it started pouring.  I ended up waiting several hours for the rain to ease up so that I could leave.  It was kinda nice hanging out with all the guys sitting under the shelter though. I liked watching the boats roll in, unphased by the storm."

31 July 2010   "...This morning at the market I was overcharged-so I didn't end up buying.  So discouraging.  As I was leaving I was thinking evil thoughts about the uncivilized, ignorant, and racist ways of some people here.  And then I tripped an cut my shin on a concrete block.  Guess it was karma keeping me in check."

21 August 2010   "...Sitting under the mango tree, good breeze, beautiful day!"

3 October 2010   "...So, after feeling completely depressed and miserable after work Friday, I stopped for pizza and beer on the way back to village.  That helped quite a bit!"

10 November 2010   "...This morning I hitched a ride up to the city on a dump truck.  Usually it's a lot faster than taking a gele gele, but today it kinda took forever because they had to stop and dump their load of sand on the way.  Free ride nonetheless."

20 December 2010  "...Just fed Sally her first bite of chili!  It was out of a can, but nonetheless tasty.  We sang some songs together, and I discovered she knows the words to "Jenny Jenkins"...well, she knows the version that I sing- I replace Jenny Jenkins with Sally Kunta."

11 January 2011   "...First entry of 2011!  The year has been off to a good start so far.  Spent the New Years holiday in a treehouse overlooking the ocean.  It was really nice."

19 February 2011   "...Took the kids to the reptile farm today...so much fun!  This afternoon my little brother and his friends came knocking on my door.  They said Njaka told them that he held a snake around his neck today and asked me if it was true.  I showed them the pictures and they were blown away and so excited!  Njaka was definitely looking like the cool kid in the village.  Then they asked me if I wanted to go chase goats with them.  I had nothing better to do, so they handed me a cassava stick and off we went."

Sometimes it's nice to take a journey through the past and remember where you've come from and what experiences have shaped you.  I'm 17-months into my service and not a day passes that I don't look around and feel in awe of what's around me and the way I'm living. 

Holiday Cheer

I have now survived two holiday seasons on the "Smiling Coast".  Last year I was fresh from America and learning to adjust to life in the subtropical African bush.  This year I feel a little more Gambian, but I have definitely been celebrating American-style!  Holiday cheer has been plentiful nonetheless.

Although there are some Gambians that are Christian, you won't exactly find them celebrating in the ways that are nostalgic of your childhood.  But luckily (because of the large Expatriate and Peace Corps community that exists), I have had the opportunity to experience things like decorations, music, and various activities that have put the spirit in my stride.  

I helped my friend's son make his first gingerbread house...it was an African-style compound, complete with a hippo basking in a pool of chocolate...

I attended the Christmas Program at the U.S. Embassy School.  The children's singing was accompanied by a band that consisted of drums, electric bass, and keys.  It was a fabulous production and the kiddos did a great job!

And I've been blessed with the opportunity to spend time with friends...

Christmas Day was fantastic!!  The day included lots of relaxation and feasting on great food with great company!  We even made *real* eggnog!

I wish that I could have shared the holidays with ALL of the special people in my life!  But hopefully you felt my cheer from where you are :)  Happy Holidays and Much LOVE!!

The Times They Are A-Changin'

As the end of the year approaches, life in the motherland has been peaceful and moving at a slower pace.  The "cold season" is officially here, which means that daytime temperatures are in the low 90's and you can sleep without sweating at night.  Many of the Senegalese fishermen went home to Senegal for the Tobaski holiday in November, and have just returned to The Gambia, after the coming of the Islamic New Year. The Islamic calendar is based on revolutions of the moon, and the new year is celebrated on the 1st day of Muharram, which is the 1st calendar month.  New Year's Day is a remembrance of the migration of Prophet Muhammad from Mecca to Medina, and is celebrated in mosques with special prayers and readings from the Koran.  

Barbara from URI came for a quick visit at the beginning of December.  We attended a fisheries conference about sanitation and trade.  Various stakeholders presented material about current challenges and conditions, and ofcourse the ban on export (due to poor sanitation, lack of ice, and threats from benzopyrenes).  I had the opportunity to meet and chat with the Minister of Fisheries and Water Resources as well!

During Barbara's visit, we also managed to create some organizational order in the office.  It was a lot of hard work, but the results are amazing!  (lack of organization is seemingly prevalent in this country...)  It was really nice to have her assistance and ofcourse I always enjoy the peanut M&Ms from America that accompany the visit.

As you might know, the volunteer life entails responsibilities and obligations to local communities, host families, and ofcourse representing the American people, on a 24/7 basis.  Thus, it is important to take a time out here and there and have some fun.   Because work has been slow the past couple of months, I have been able to do just that.  Recently some friends gathered at a local beachside establishment in my village for a little weekend r&r.  We had a bonfire on the beach and enjoyed the surf.

Another exciting recent occurrence was the wedding of my fellow Peace Corps Volunteer and friend, Jessi.  There was a traditional African celebration at the compound of her husband's family, that included local dishes, dancers, and drumming!

The bride with her mother and friend from America!

Before the ceremony

Plenty of babies to hold in The Gambia!

Within a matter of days, I will have begun and ended 2010 in Africa! What a spectacular year of change!

Life Is Strange

~Life is strange, life is good, and life is all that it should be...~

The past couple of months have been eventful, weird, frustrating, fulfilling, and entertaining...nonetheless, life is good!

The Ba-Nafaa Project representatives from URI came for a visit at the end of September, and as always, it was really nice having them here.  I helped facilitate a Biostatistics Training Course, as a follow-up to the one we conducted this spring.  The participation and level of understanding was much better this time around.  Overall, it was a great experience.  

We also hosted a two-day Sole Fisheries Co-Management and Stock Assessment Workshop.  It was attended by various stakeholders such as local fishermen, women fish processors, fishing industry advocates, Department of Fisheries staffs, and even a member of the Navy.  Opening remarks were given by the Permanent Secretary of the Ministry of Forestry and Environment, a U.S. Embassy representative, and the Director of International Programs from URI; all of which was taped and broadcasted by a local television station.  I gave two introductory presentations on Gathering Local Knowledge and Sole Fisheries By-Catch Assessment (they were translated into Woloof by a co-worker for those who did not understand English). And the participants elected the official Sole Fisheries Co-Management Committee and discussed the mission statement, objectives, committee structure and organization, and sole management plans.  It was really neat to be a part of this process and witness Gambians working together and problem-solving.  It was very moving.

The Inaugural Meeting for the Sole Fisheries Co-Management Committee was held a couple of weeks ago.  I am serving as a Technical Advisor for the Committee, so it's a good opportunity to listen, observe, and learn; but also contribute technical knowledge and skills.  

It was decided that the oyster research study and sole data collection activities I'm currently involved in will continue on through June and July of 2011, so I have continued to put a lot of my time and effort into this.

*off to look at oyster growth*

*our research vessel for the day*

*fisherman in my village that assists me in data collection*

In other news, my niece Sally Kunta turned 4-years old on October 18th.  We feasted on watermelon, boiled peanuts, chicken, and most importantly, birthday cake!  The family was overjoyed with all of this and it was neat to teach them a bit about how birthdays are celebrated in America.

All of the recent happenings have led me to conclude that my life is strange...

good...

and all that it should be!

Cosmic Debris

~Who you jivin' with that Cosmic Debris?  Look here brother, don't you waste your time on me...~

Unlike some folks, I happen to find astrology very fascinating and sensible, as it interprets what influence the movements of the planets and stars might have on our lives.  Lately, I have felt a deeper interest, as I'm experiencing a "Saturn Return".  This astrological pattern occurs when Saturn completes its cycle through the zodiac and returns to the spot it occupied when you were born.  Because this cycle takes 29-years, you will experience this time of endings and new beginnings as you approach 30-years as well as 60-years old.  Saturn is considered to be a taskmaster planet that forces you to confront reality, so this transition period can bring about a sense of urgency; a feeling that you must try to accomplish everything you've ever wanted or planned to do, and goals come sharply into focus.  I must say, the reality that this Saturn Return has urged me to consider, is a bright and colorful one!

So, I've officially left my beloved 20's in the past, and am starting to see a bigger picture and color it in!  Turning 30 in The Gambia was exciting and I was able to celebrate it just right.  Dinner with friends, Dirty 30 Scavenger Hunt, Katchikali Crocodile Pool...

In other news, my sister Adou has moved to her husband's village.  Marriage in The Gambia is a gradual process or series of events and the woman's family must provide her with various things before she can go to her husband.  My mother finally supplied the cooking pots, buckets, bowls etc. necessary for her to start her new life.  My grandmother and close friends of my mother gathered at our compound to see her off.  The tradition is that the man's father will come to collect the woman and bring her home to the new family.  I waited until 11:30 pm for this to take place, then gave up and went to bed.  Gambians stay up so late!

My brother Njaka miraculously passed Grade 1 and will start Grade 2 next week.  To celebrate, I took him, Sally, and our cousin Daat to the Abuko Nature Reserve.  They dressed in their best clothes and even cleaned their shoes for the big outing.  Their excitement and anticipation melted my heart.  It was a beautiful day out and we had a blast.  The highlight was watching the feeding of the hyenas!!

We fed groundnuts to the baboons at the animal orphanage!

And watched the hyenas fight over a ram's head!

The planets and the stars are working wonders!  It's out with the old, and in with the new!  But as I  reflect on the past, i feel that I've lived a good life and accomplished some amazing things.  This Saturn Return definitely has me feeling like a proud 30-year old lady!  

Homegrown Tomatoes

~Homegrown tomatoes homegrown tomatoes
What'd life be without homegrown tomatoes
Only two things that money can't buy
That's true love & homegrown tomatoes...~

Sometimes life in subtropical climate provides me with that feeling of summertime in the south year round...sweat, heat rash, sunburn, and a good excuse to jump in the ocean!  But still I find myself aching for an Alabama summer! (Never imagined I would speak those words)  Homegrown tomatoes, blueberry pickin', river floatin', live music, and friendly faces is what's missing from my life right now!  God bless the sweet sunny south!

But I can't complain, life has been treating me well this summer...lots of family time and hanging out in the village, collecting daily fish data at the beach, and oyster study fieldwork...just business as usual.

My host mother took me on a day trip to visit some of her family.  I was able to meet her grandmother (Sally's great great-grandmother), one of her sisters, and some nieces and nephews.  They have a very nice compound with electricity, ceiling fans, and tiled floors!  I was in heaven!

About five months ago a new furry friend became a permanent fixture at our compound.  Not knowing how to say puppy in Mandinka, I referred to him as "wuuloo deenaanoo", or dog baby.  My family found this hilarious, and the name stuck.  Anyhow, wuuloo deenaanoo is very skittish and finally, after five-months, has now let me pet him for the first time. So we totally bonded...and then the little punk ate my brand new flip flops! 

Molamin is getting big, growing teeth, and doesn't cry or spit up breast milk quite as often as he used to.  

My sister Kaddy turned 14-years old this past month.  I guess birthdays aren't really celebrated here...most people don't even know their ages...But I did a little something for her anyways.

I have taught a few of my family members how to play frisbee, and really they are quite good!  Even Sally, who turns 4-years old in October, has gotten the hang of  it.  I also taught Njaka how to build sand castles...

Work has been steady and I've started collecting data for sole fisheries stock assessment at the landing site in my village.  A local fisherman assists me with the work and has been teaching me a lot about the different species of fish here.  Most of the fishermen are Senegalese, as is he, so they speak either French or Woloof.  I speak neither, so communication is tricky at times. 

Stoppin' in at a coconut plantation on the way to a job site

It was a beautiful day at work!

And another beautiful day at work!  (This river is on the border of Senegal)

All my hard work has its perks! This was one of the best days I've had here...brought home a bucket of blue crabs...enjoyed them while listening to an old Dead show.

While I'm missing out on homegrown tomatoes in Bama this summer, the rainy season in The Gambia is full of rainbows!  Life is good!

 Ambulances do exist in this country, but I've yet to see one used for medical emergencies...this one is transporting cockle shells!

Paper & Ink

"Money's only paper only ink
We'll destroy ourselves if we can't agree
How the world turns
Who made the sun
Who owns the sea
The world we know will fall piece by piece..."

I failed to mention it in previous posts, but the current situation in the Gulf of Mexico has been weighing heavy on my heart and mind.  The damage done to our environment is terrifying, but what saddens me the most is that we will likely continue living our lives in the same fashion...turning a blind eye to our destructive ways. However, I hope that this catastrophe will serve as a wake up call and spark some positive change.  But a change in outcome requires a change in lifestyle! A reality check on our priorities, morals, and values is in order! And I think that demanding better legislation from our elected officials and taking the power out of the hands of large corporations is also a good start. If we can work together, rather than against each other, maybe the future won't look so bleak.