Life Is Strange

~Life is strange, life is good, and life is all that it should be...~

The past couple of months have been eventful, weird, frustrating, fulfilling, and entertaining...nonetheless, life is good!

The Ba-Nafaa Project representatives from URI came for a visit at the end of September, and as always, it was really nice having them here.  I helped facilitate a Biostatistics Training Course, as a follow-up to the one we conducted this spring.  The participation and level of understanding was much better this time around.  Overall, it was a great experience.  

We also hosted a two-day Sole Fisheries Co-Management and Stock Assessment Workshop.  It was attended by various stakeholders such as local fishermen, women fish processors, fishing industry advocates, Department of Fisheries staffs, and even a member of the Navy.  Opening remarks were given by the Permanent Secretary of the Ministry of Forestry and Environment, a U.S. Embassy representative, and the Director of International Programs from URI; all of which was taped and broadcasted by a local television station.  I gave two introductory presentations on Gathering Local Knowledge and Sole Fisheries By-Catch Assessment (they were translated into Woloof by a co-worker for those who did not understand English). And the participants elected the official Sole Fisheries Co-Management Committee and discussed the mission statement, objectives, committee structure and organization, and sole management plans.  It was really neat to be a part of this process and witness Gambians working together and problem-solving.  It was very moving.

The Inaugural Meeting for the Sole Fisheries Co-Management Committee was held a couple of weeks ago.  I am serving as a Technical Advisor for the Committee, so it's a good opportunity to listen, observe, and learn; but also contribute technical knowledge and skills.  

It was decided that the oyster research study and sole data collection activities I'm currently involved in will continue on through June and July of 2011, so I have continued to put a lot of my time and effort into this.

*off to look at oyster growth*

*our research vessel for the day*

*fisherman in my village that assists me in data collection*

In other news, my niece Sally Kunta turned 4-years old on October 18th.  We feasted on watermelon, boiled peanuts, chicken, and most importantly, birthday cake!  The family was overjoyed with all of this and it was neat to teach them a bit about how birthdays are celebrated in America.

All of the recent happenings have led me to conclude that my life is strange...

good...

and all that it should be!

Cosmic Debris

~Who you jivin' with that Cosmic Debris?  Look here brother, don't you waste your time on me...~

Unlike some folks, I happen to find astrology very fascinating and sensible, as it interprets what influence the movements of the planets and stars might have on our lives.  Lately, I have felt a deeper interest, as I'm experiencing a "Saturn Return".  This astrological pattern occurs when Saturn completes its cycle through the zodiac and returns to the spot it occupied when you were born.  Because this cycle takes 29-years, you will experience this time of endings and new beginnings as you approach 30-years as well as 60-years old.  Saturn is considered to be a taskmaster planet that forces you to confront reality, so this transition period can bring about a sense of urgency; a feeling that you must try to accomplish everything you've ever wanted or planned to do, and goals come sharply into focus.  I must say, the reality that this Saturn Return has urged me to consider, is a bright and colorful one!

So, I've officially left my beloved 20's in the past, and am starting to see a bigger picture and color it in!  Turning 30 in The Gambia was exciting and I was able to celebrate it just right.  Dinner with friends, Dirty 30 Scavenger Hunt, Katchikali Crocodile Pool...

In other news, my sister Adou has moved to her husband's village.  Marriage in The Gambia is a gradual process or series of events and the woman's family must provide her with various things before she can go to her husband.  My mother finally supplied the cooking pots, buckets, bowls etc. necessary for her to start her new life.  My grandmother and close friends of my mother gathered at our compound to see her off.  The tradition is that the man's father will come to collect the woman and bring her home to the new family.  I waited until 11:30 pm for this to take place, then gave up and went to bed.  Gambians stay up so late!

My brother Njaka miraculously passed Grade 1 and will start Grade 2 next week.  To celebrate, I took him, Sally, and our cousin Daat to the Abuko Nature Reserve.  They dressed in their best clothes and even cleaned their shoes for the big outing.  Their excitement and anticipation melted my heart.  It was a beautiful day out and we had a blast.  The highlight was watching the feeding of the hyenas!!

We fed groundnuts to the baboons at the animal orphanage!

And watched the hyenas fight over a ram's head!

The planets and the stars are working wonders!  It's out with the old, and in with the new!  But as I  reflect on the past, i feel that I've lived a good life and accomplished some amazing things.  This Saturn Return definitely has me feeling like a proud 30-year old lady!  

Homegrown Tomatoes

~Homegrown tomatoes homegrown tomatoes
What'd life be without homegrown tomatoes
Only two things that money can't buy
That's true love & homegrown tomatoes...~

Sometimes life in subtropical climate provides me with that feeling of summertime in the south year round...sweat, heat rash, sunburn, and a good excuse to jump in the ocean!  But still I find myself aching for an Alabama summer! (Never imagined I would speak those words)  Homegrown tomatoes, blueberry pickin', river floatin', live music, and friendly faces is what's missing from my life right now!  God bless the sweet sunny south!

But I can't complain, life has been treating me well this summer...lots of family time and hanging out in the village, collecting daily fish data at the beach, and oyster study fieldwork...just business as usual.

My host mother took me on a day trip to visit some of her family.  I was able to meet her grandmother (Sally's great great-grandmother), one of her sisters, and some nieces and nephews.  They have a very nice compound with electricity, ceiling fans, and tiled floors!  I was in heaven!

About five months ago a new furry friend became a permanent fixture at our compound.  Not knowing how to say puppy in Mandinka, I referred to him as "wuuloo deenaanoo", or dog baby.  My family found this hilarious, and the name stuck.  Anyhow, wuuloo deenaanoo is very skittish and finally, after five-months, has now let me pet him for the first time. So we totally bonded...and then the little punk ate my brand new flip flops! 

Molamin is getting big, growing teeth, and doesn't cry or spit up breast milk quite as often as he used to.  

My sister Kaddy turned 14-years old this past month.  I guess birthdays aren't really celebrated here...most people don't even know their ages...But I did a little something for her anyways.

I have taught a few of my family members how to play frisbee, and really they are quite good!  Even Sally, who turns 4-years old in October, has gotten the hang of  it.  I also taught Njaka how to build sand castles...

Work has been steady and I've started collecting data for sole fisheries stock assessment at the landing site in my village.  A local fisherman assists me with the work and has been teaching me a lot about the different species of fish here.  Most of the fishermen are Senegalese, as is he, so they speak either French or Woloof.  I speak neither, so communication is tricky at times. 

Stoppin' in at a coconut plantation on the way to a job site

It was a beautiful day at work!

And another beautiful day at work!  (This river is on the border of Senegal)

All my hard work has its perks! This was one of the best days I've had here...brought home a bucket of blue crabs...enjoyed them while listening to an old Dead show.

While I'm missing out on homegrown tomatoes in Bama this summer, the rainy season in The Gambia is full of rainbows!  Life is good!

 Ambulances do exist in this country, but I've yet to see one used for medical emergencies...this one is transporting cockle shells!

Paper & Ink

"Money's only paper only ink
We'll destroy ourselves if we can't agree
How the world turns
Who made the sun
Who owns the sea
The world we know will fall piece by piece..."

I failed to mention it in previous posts, but the current situation in the Gulf of Mexico has been weighing heavy on my heart and mind.  The damage done to our environment is terrifying, but what saddens me the most is that we will likely continue living our lives in the same fashion...turning a blind eye to our destructive ways. However, I hope that this catastrophe will serve as a wake up call and spark some positive change.  But a change in outcome requires a change in lifestyle! A reality check on our priorities, morals, and values is in order! And I think that demanding better legislation from our elected officials and taking the power out of the hands of large corporations is also a good start. If we can work together, rather than against each other, maybe the future won't look so bleak.

What's your contribution to life?

~Either you a part of the problem or you a part of the solution

What's your contribution to life? 

So many people complain, always talking about change

But what's your contribution to life?

Either you with or ain't with it, if it ain't broke don't fix it

Yo, what's your contribution to life?

Either you give or you take, make moves or you wait, 

But what's your contribution to life?~

I feel so grateful for all of the support that I've been shown as I make this contribution to life.   Although I am not saving people, or the world, I hope that through this exchange of knowledge and culture, my actions will somehow make a  lasting impact.

With that said, I've been hard at work trying to be part of the solution.  My primary focus continues to be my work with World Wildlife Fund (WWF) on the Ba-Nafaa Sustainable Fisheries Project.  The past few months I have been back and forth between my village and the city, and all of our project sites.  I miss my host family tremendously while I am away, but I feel that in my absence I am serving a greater purpose.

To reach one of the aquaculture project sites in the Tanbi Wetlands National Park (no longer Tanbi Wetlands Complex-now a National Park!), I was paddled in a dugout canoe by Fatou, an oyster harvester pictured above.  These boats are so narrow and close to the water...it was quite an adventure taking salinity and dissolved oxygen readings, snapping photos, and recording field notes without tipping over!

Analyzing the oyster spat on our collected aquaculture tiles

One of our partners from the University of Rhode Island (URI) visited The Gambia for a couple of weeks.  (It is always very exciting to me when the Americans come...makes me feel closer to home I suppose) We took him on a boat ride through the bolongs to view the oyster harvesting sites and our aquaculture racks.

We discovered an abundance of ascidians, or sea squirts, on some of our strings.  Although a pest, they fascinate me.

During his visit, Dr. Rice conducted an Oyster Culture and Water Quality Assessment Training Seminar that was attended by representatives of the Department of Parks and Wildlife Management (DPWM), Department of Fisheries (DoFish), Water Resources Laboratory, Ministry of Health, Livestock Service Laboratory, and Ba-Nafaa Project. 

We had a great turn out and everyone learned a lot from Dr. Rice.  For me, it was very interesting to hear about aquaculture practices around the world, and more specifically in Dagupan, Phillipines where he served as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  Some components of our current project design are modeled after his work in Dagupan.  I hope to visit there someday!

Okay, so by now you have probably realized that I like to squeeze in some fun with my work.  The World Cup has been the highlight of my universe lately.  I support some teams based on their skills, and others by the hotness of the players (right now I am loving some Uruguay!).  The British High Commission hosted a party for the England vs. USA game...sooo much fun!  Even got to chat with our American Ambassador.  Luckily, while in the city working, I have managed to catch a lot of the games via big screen at local bar/restaurants.  

Gambians LOVE Obama!!

Feel Like A Stranger

~yes and it's gonna get stranger, some things you just know~

Okay, so it's true that my host mother refers to me as her "stranger", but it's also true that i'm referred to as the "toubab" or white person.  And if I'm really lucky, I am referred to as "Sally Bojang", my Gambian name.  Many of you have been asking what life is like here, and what's a typical day like...for whatever reason this is a difficult question to answer.  But I've grown accustomed to many ideas, sightings, and behaviors that I'm currently surrounded by, and sometimes when I stop to ponder...I feel like a stranger to myself.

Some components of the strangeness....speaking a different language (Mandinka); living in a predominantly Muslim culture...you know, polygymy, prayer five times a day, conservative beliefs; hitch hiking, grabbing taxis, and being patient when the gele gele has to be pushed by several men to get started;  admiring plastic jewelry, anything with Obama on it, and shoes with rhinestones; mistaking the dirt on your body for suntan; not cooking for yourself, and eating whatever is handed to you....whether or not it looks disgusting or mysterious;  having small children help you do your laundry...b/c they are better at it than you; covering entire body in baby powder to avoid heat rash and chaffing; being fearful of rats and unknown creatures falling through the ceiling while you are sleeping; fighting off ridiculously sized unidentifiable insects and cursing the ants for continuing to create holes in the walls; seeing people blowing snotrockets constantly (makes me gag!); rotted teeth and head to toe skin infections on the majority of people you come in contact with; having a 3-yr old accompany you everywhere you go in hopes to receive less harassment; being gawked at for being 30-yrs. old and unmarried with no children (okay, so people do this in america also but it's more shameful here);  being a grown woman living with a family, having to report when and where you are coming and going, being spyed on by little kiddos, and basically having no privacy;  random people offering you their children; watching your host mother (who is a grandmother) use her breasts as a pacifier for infant;  no longer recycling or having trash pick-up, but rather throwing trash on the ground, burying or burning it; heterosexual men holding hands;  keeping mental notes about your bowel movements; meeting people with black gums b/c they willingly poured battery acid on them; and finally,when it is weird to see a white person, you know you've grown accustomed to living in Africa.

I've been comforted by many things which help me to feel more at ease with myself...Bill Maher podcasts, receiving mail, listening to music, shopping at fukujai (an open market that's like a huge american thrift store), reading tons and tons of books, eating candy bars, playing djembe, having a cell phone (i can text other volunteers for free)....and ofcourse, occassional internet access!  I appreciate technology like never before (I think that's because it has a limited role in my life now)  Though my #1 comfort item is my gift from Bella...

The work on my living space was completed, and I was able to move back to my village at the end of April.   I returned to find cashew fruit everywhere, and mangoes ripening.  All the tree climbing and fruit picking came to a end though when I experienced a gnarly allergic reaction to the urushiol that is thriving in these trees and fruits.  My face was much improved at the time of this photo, thanks to steroids, benedryl, and epinephrine, but still not a sight for sore eyes.

The adjustment to village life has otherwise been going well, and I'm plotting up ways to improve my compound such as building a chicken coup, composting, repairing the damaged fencing, and continuing to help the dogs chase the cattle and goats away.  Aside from fencing issues, the biggest challenge I'm facing is convincing the family to put trash in the hole that's been dug, instead of spreading it all around the compound and applying it to the garden.   I hope to educate them about managing waste and using compost, and sanitation...like not letting the chickens poop in the cook house, and not letting the kids poop in the yard.  I've got my work cut out for me!

The neighbor's cattle help themselves to our mangoes

and have destroyed our banana trees

Being back in the village has also meant lots of reading, family time, football matches, and enjoying bucket baths once again.  And I saw my first Kankuran!  They are sorta like cultural mascots....the ones I saw had just emerged from the bush and were headed to the ocean with the young boys that had recently been circumsized. They act as protectors for the boys while they spend several weeks in the bush.  Supposed to be a magical time in a young boy's life, but hanging out with trippy beings dressed in branches and leaves that are packing machetes is unsettling to me.  Didn't have the opportunity to catch a photograph of them, but the other day my little brother's friend dressed up as one....

Sally and Njaka not only help me clean my house and do my laundry, but they also keep me entertained!  Sally is the only person in The Gambia that will listen to Grateful Dead with me.  Which leads me to my next point; the Peace Corps is not full of hippies!  Did you hear that America?!

Several friends have come to visit my village...unfortunately their stellar local language skills lead my family to think I'm a moron that doesn't "hear Mandinka", but we've managed to have some fun anyways.  Highlights include celebrating Bob Marley Day, making cheese dip (thank you for the velveeta Sara!!), and hanging out at the beach.  

All in all, we're just people living our lives...you know, eating, sleeping, breathing, chatting, working.  Although I sometimes feel like a stranger in my own life, I'm okay with it. So let's get on with the show.